All who love jewelry know that it is a tool for personal expression. Jewelry gives us the power to create space for who we want to be, and often for our younger selves who we might have hoped to see in the world. While it is true that sometimes this kind of adornment can be about status, we believe that more often it is about something much more subtle and complex: our identity, in all its myriad forms. 

Throughout history, jewelry has played a significant role in defining societal norms and challenging them. Our queer founder, Deb, has always been fascinated by gender expression. One aspect of this dynamic tension that we find most fascinating is the way androgyny has been represented and celebrated through jewelry across history. 

In this post, we will take a journey through time to discover how androgyny has been performed and adored through jewels, taking inspiration from LGBTQ icons who have challenged conventional notions of beauty and gender.   

Androgyny in Ancient Times

Our exploration begins in ancient civilizations, where androgyny was often celebrated and revered. In ancient Egypt, jewelry was a symbol of status and power, and both men and women wore intricate pieces that often depicted deities who embodied both masculine and feminine qualities. For instance, the god Hermes-Thoth, a deity of wisdom, wore a headdress adorned with a combination of traditionally masculine and feminine symbols, revealing the duality within any one entity. Jewelry, such as pectorals, scarab amulets, and ankhs, served as both decorative items and powerful symbols of this philosophy.

Similarly, in ancient Rome, jewelry played a significant role in expressing one's identity, and it wasn't uncommon to find men wearing earrings and necklaces alongside women. The ancient Romans recognized that beauty and self-expression were not limited by gender boundaries.

The Victorian Era: A Time of Gender Ambiguity

Fast forward to the Victorian era, which was a period marked by strict gender roles and societal norms. Despite these strict norms, there was a subtle rebellion. Jewelry offered an unexpected avenue for androgynous expression. Men sported brooches, tie pins, and cufflinks adorned with pearls, cameos, and other traditionally feminine materials. Queen Victoria played a role in popularizing this trend by gifting her husband Prince Albert a brooch in the shape of a lover's knot, demonstrating the blurring of gender lines in jewelry. Even during the Victorian era's repressive standards, there were subtle expressions of androgyny presented through jewelry. 

Art Deco and Gender Fluidity

The Art Deco era of the early 20th century marked a decisive shift in artistic expression. The bold, geometric shapes and stark contrasts of Art Deco design allowed for an exploration of gender fluidity. Art Deco jewelry for both men and women was characterized by clean lines and a new mix of materials – from platinum and diamonds to onyx and coral. Iconic figures like Marlene Dietrich and Josephine Baker, both known for their androgynous fashion choices, were celebrated during this period. Their mainstream, playful blurring of gender lines showed that jewelry could be a tool for self-expression that transcended societal norms. 

Contemporary Androgynous Jewelry: A Resurgence

In today's world, the boundaries of gender expression have expanded even further, and jewelry is a powerful medium for self-expression. Jewelry designers and wearers are increasingly challenging traditional norms, embracing androgynous designs that are inclusive and diverse.

In this context, we draw inspiration from LGBTQ icons who have redefined beauty and gender. From the punk-inspired jewelry of David Bowie to the elegant minimalism of Tilda Swinton, these individuals have shown us that jewelry knows no gender. 

The evolution of androgyny in jewelry is a testament to the ever-changing landscape of gender expression and the blurring of the gender divide. Throughout history, jewelry has been a mirror reflecting societal attitudes toward gender, from the fluidity of ancient cultures to the gender-bending styles of the Victorian era and the bold expressions of today's LGBTQ icons. As we continue to challenge traditional norms, jewelry can serve as a symbol of our ever-evolving understanding of beauty, identity, and the freedom to be ourselves. Embracing androgynous jewelry is a celebration of the diverse tapestry of human expression, one that has been woven throughout history and continues to thrive in the present day. Here at Cate’s we celebrate that self-expression and embrace other Queer designers in collaborations in our collections, embracing the beauty that comes from allowing people to express themselves and share that expression with others.